Come on up to the Second Floor

WE HAVE BEEN ON the quest for the best Xiao Long Bao in Auckland and we finally found them at Second Floor in Parnell. Auntie Jenny noticed this restaurant open without fanfare and on a cold winter's night, we decided to give it a go. Parnell is not known for its restaurants (apart from Antiones, Non Solo Pizza and Java Room), it's more a twee tourist destination.

    So it's up the stairs of this old grand villa and into a restaurant fitted out without reds, and the dining room openes out to the twinking lights that seem to line much of Parnell. You can't help noticing the three chandeliers. And a large replica phonograph that was playing Chinese traditional music played on the pipa, dizi, guqin and suona. It's rather rather incongrous to see this phonograph, half expecting Nipper the dog to pop up and sit beside the wind-up gramophone listening to His Master's Voice (HMV).
   We chose the Xiao Long Bao from the Chinese Pastry section of the menu (Steamed Pork Buns). You get 5 for $8. The benchmark Xiao Long Bao is of course from Din Tai Fung. Yes there are 18 pleats (we counted!) and the the filling of minced pork in soup cannot be faulted. We placed julienne of fresh ginger on top of the Xiao Long Bao on the porcelain spoon, drizzled with a few drops of black Chinese vinegar and proceed to slowly consume this delectable morsel with small bite and sips. Heaven!
   There are 11 entrees, of which Olive Leaves & Broad Bean and Beef Floss & Sesame Pockets caught our eye. But it will have to be another time.

   Of the mains, the Chef's Special Pork was a standout. It's worth noting the Chefs are from Beijing and Shanghai. The menu describes the Special as slowly cooked and steamed slice pork belly, with chestnuts, long beans and sun-dried vegetable. Our waitperson advised that we won't be disappointed. Truly not. It arrived looking sumptious crafted into a layered pyramid. She said Chef layered the sliced pork belly into a mould before cooking in dark sweet soya sauce. The pork-belly was deconstructed at the table and served on steamed rice. It would have been good to have a little burner under the bowl to keep this dish warm.

   We also had the Tomato and Egg to accompany the pork belly. It's more like comfort food for us, a throwback to our younger days when Mum would whip up a quick breakfast or lunch. Light sauce drizzled on the tomato and scrambled egg on rice. Second Floor stuff the tomato with egg as well.
   The Dessert menu was tempting especially the Pumpkin Puffs. But we were happily replete and made a mental note of the Lunch Menu.
   So we should be very happy with Second Floor. Yes, we were, the food cannot be faulted. It's 8°C outside and there is no heating. Furthermore towards the end of the evening, the two serving staff opened half the windows facing the street, to air the dining room. It wasn't condusive to end our meal in comfort. Maybe that was the reason why the waiter was wearing a black puffer jacket throughout service. Akin to wearing track pants I thought. Not the right attire for a restaurant of this calibre. Nothing that can't be fixed though and this is a gem in Auckland Chinese dining.

SECOND FLOOR
Level 2
317 Parnell Road
Parnell
Auckland
Ph (09) 368 5788

Oh Mamak!

RESTAURATEUR JEFFERY NG has found his culinary niche. He has opened his drawcard Mamak spot with wife Charlotte in the Chancery Precinct, Auckland CBD. With a captive market of Malaysian nationals, students, a lot of whom live in the central city, and locals who love Malaysian food, Mamak caters for all. It's a firm favourite with my CWI Aunties.

Mamak refers to the cuisine of Tamil-Muslims of West Malaysia. Mamak stalls and cafes offer cheap abundant food, from breakfast to dinner. Most dishes are accompanied by roti and the usual dhal or curry. Jeffery has picked up on this model and opened Mamak Malaysian as a modern take on Mamak cuisine. Muslims can dine here, the food is halal. And the chef is from Sarawak, our home State.

The fit out is modern, with Malay phrases and English translations on the walls. You can sit outside under huge shades in the precinct. Gas heaters keep you warm. Start with Mamak Tapas: Tofu Sambal, Sambal Grilled Prawns, Chicken Satay, Spicy Soft-shell Crab, Pandan Soy Bites, Sambal Sotong Balls or Sambal Telur (deep-fried hard boiled eggs with sambal sauce).

For mains, you can't go wrong with the Nasi Lemak, or a Beef Rendang, all manner of curries served with lemak rice or roti and Indian cabbage. You can have the roti as roti canai, roti telur (egg) or roti bawang (onion). For noodles: Mee Goreng, Char Kueh Tiaw, Curry Chicken Ho Fun. The food is authentic enough but more tailored for the New Zealand palate. The robust tastes of the cooking at Mamak stalls is not quite there though the food is spicy and hot enough (check the 3 chilli indication). Nice serving touches include lemak rice (with coconut milk), banana leaf and sambal, big plates and deep bowls.

For drinks, Tiger Beer is a great accompaniment, and their wine is by the mini-bottle. Rather humorous and wine afficianados will turn their noses up at this choice. But then wine does not feature much in Mamak cuisine, it's a European affectation. You can choose Teh Tarik (pulled tea), Teh Ais (ice milk tea) or Kopi O to end the meal with with the piéce de rèsistance Roti Tissue, crispy 'tissue' thin roti built in a cone 40cm high. The inside surface has a sugar syrup. For added sweetness, there is a saucer of condensed milk for you to dip into. Rather decadent!

The young squeal with delight when they find they can have Kickapoo Joy Juice or A&W Root Beer. I have been meaning to ask Jeffery whether he make me a root beer float. One day, soon.

MAMAK MALAYSIAN
50 Kitchener Street
Chancery Precinct
Ph 09 9486479

Ponsonby Produce Market

PONSONBY CENTRAL launched the next stage of their retail concept with the opening of the Ponsonby Produce Market, a gourmet mix of fresh produce, food, wine and cafes.

The back building is now complete, with Foxtrot Parlour, The Dairy, Little Bread & Butter, Wine Direct, Ceres Fresh Market, Jimmy The Fish, Neat Meat, The Goods Store and Eighthirty Coffee are all onboard. Opening day brought in the punters, some refugees from being turned away from Ponsonby Central's hotspot, The Blue Breeze Inn.

A regular feature will be cooking demonstrations by Sri Lankan chef Kit Perara, who has been hosting his famous Chef For A Night Dinners at the Fisher & Paykel Kitchen at the Ponsonby Produce Market. Today, he enchanted his audience with cooking Monfish Coconut Curry and had four young ones who helped with making the roti with curry leaves. Kit Perera knows his stuff and had the audience in the palm of his hand. As former Cricket Master at Christ College, he knows how to handle the youngsters, especially poor Jackson who dropped his finished roti. "No harm done, the 2-second rule applies" as the roti was swiftly picked off the floor.

PONSONBY CENTRAL
incorporating Ponsonby Produce Market
136-138 Ponsonby Road
Ponsonby
Auckland

Batik Artist Michael Lim

ARTIST MICHAEL LIM has been painting batiks ever since I was a student in Kuching. We all looked up to him and Ramsay Ong, they projected and defined art in Sarawak with their observations of life in native longhouses and kampungs. They painted the rich tapestry of life around them, in a medium that was local and suited exactly what they were trying to express.

We used to dye our waxed fabric in dye baths, starting with the lightest color (yellow) and cracked the wax according to create that signature cracked texture that batiks achieve. The days of large trays of dyes are long gone. Dyes are now brushed on, the wax delineates areas of the colours. Large batik paintings and murals can can now be created without dye baths.

Ramsay Ong went on to explore other aspects of batiks and painting, using rice paper, silk, painting on bark and took off to far-flung places like Sri Lanka to continue his quest. Michael Lim has steadfastly stayed with batik techniques and also produced works of art in water-colour and acrylics.

His home in Jalan Mendu, Kuching is his studio. He paints in tropical splendour, surrounded by native bush and durian trees. His works adorn all the walls and and holds regular shows for invited guests and visitors. He has patrons in local dignitaries and tourists come and view and more often than not, commission him to do pieces as per what he has on show. Well how can you resist when he always has spreads of Nonya kuehs and local kopi-o waiting for you, being such an accomplished cook.

Michael Lim finds inspiration in his acute observations of orchids, pitcher plants and the protected bird of Sarawak, the hornbill. A few of his works literally hang from the ceiling or mural-like across the wall. There are a few native longhouse paintings, around around, amidst wooden carvings by the Ibans or antique beadwork by Bidayuh, Kenyah or Kelabit.

MICHAEL LIM
Batik Artist
10 Lorong Satu
Jalan Mendu
Kuching
+60 82 246906
michaelim38@gmail.com

Lot 10 Hutong

WHEN LOT 10 was built in 1991 at Bukit Bintang (Star Hill), Kuala Lumpur it was the place to shop as it was the leading shopping complex, modern in it's green cladding and metallic detailing. Since it's heyday, it has been now surpassed by Suria KLCC and lately the grand Pavilion. Lot 10 Hutong was created to revive the food centre at the lower ground floor.

Lot 10 Hutong is based on the the concept of the food outlets of the narrow alleys and lanes (hutong) of Beijing. Management went out to handpick established hawker outlet and cafes from Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Seremban, Ipoh and Malacca, eateries that have survived the 2nd and 3rd generations and famous for their signature dishes. It's has become a site for heritage street food stalls, a gourmet village.

Of course there is a lot of competition from all the established food lanes like Jalan Alor, the new mega eating outlets like Food Republic at Pavilion. Many locals say the food is more expensive but admit that it's a perfect one-stop centre of over 30 stalls, each furbished in traditional styles and it's clean and air-conditioned.

Have a Kopi-O at Nanyang Ten Coffee Shop. They roast their own coffee. Or have a teh C or teh tarik. They have the full range of breakfast favourites, and all manner of local toasts like roti kahwin with kaya. If you are looking for congee, you can'go past Swatow Teochew Porridge and have youtiao to go with it. For noodles Kim Lian Kee make robust Hokkien Noodles, Ho Weng Kee is famous for their BBQ Pork Wantan Mee, with the noodles cooked with dark soya sauce. For Hakka fare, go to Adon Traditinal Yong Tau Foo. You can get Woo Ping famed fish-head noodles. The Chua brothers have brought their Duck Egg Char Kway Teow to Lot 10 Hutong.

You can have a snack of Campbell Mini Popiah and Mr Siew Bao. Or if in the pursuit of a good Chicken Rice, you're in luck, you can have the chicken poached roasted from Chong Hwa Hainan Chicken Rice. I had ham chim peng as a treat and there are many other kuehs you can choose from. End your food odyssey with Ais Kacang or Bubur Cha Cha from Oriental Desserts.

Undeniably all national food treasures. So much so the New York Times listed Lot 10 Hutong as one of 'Asia's Top Odysseys'. Now the Hutong concept is set to open in Guangzhou this month.

Lot 10 Hutong
Lower ground floor
Lot 10
50 Jalan Sultan Ismail
Bukit Bintang
Kuala Lumpur

Some enchanted evening... at Siniawan

IT WAS ALWAYS a big thrill to venture out of Kuching to Bau and swim at Tasek Biru back in the mist of time. On the way, we take the ferry across the Sarawak River at Batu Kitang, through Siniawan, then Buso before reaching the gold mining town of Bau. These townships were thriving trading centres for the farmers and market gardeners around.

Then a bridge was built and access to Bau was not ruled by the ferry. You can now drive to Bau via Batu Kawa or Matang. Siniawan and Buso were by-passed by a highway. To revive the fortunes of Siniawan, the idea of a night market was born, local businesses would create a fiesta of food and song every Friday and Saturday night. My art mentor Apai Michael Lim is a great supporter of night markets and his deep love of the countryside, being one Sarawak's most famous artist of batiks. He brought us there with Moses, Jessie, David and Darlene who are more interested in eating.

Siniawan is half an hour out of Kuching. We took the turn-off from the highway and ventured down the somewhat unlit road to Siniawan township. In the distance was an alluring glow, a night of reminiscing was unfolding. We could see that the road that passed through the old township has been closed off, lanterns strung across the two rows of colonial-style shophouses. Tables and chairs lined across the road right to the end of the street. All the shops were open and the restaurants, cafes and food stalls were all set for an evening of eating, drinking and shopping.

Apai ordered for us. He was engrossed in deep conversations with the chefs as there was all manner of fresh food, Jungle produce, wild boar meat and venison, seafood and shellfish. We had a fish ball and tau pok soup, chicken kachanma (my favorite confinement food) with dried kachangma, ginger, chicken and Chinese wine (Shaoxing). What a delight it was to have another favourite, stuffed bitter gourd. The pork mince was mixed with flavour-enhancing grilled salted fish. No meal is complete without a sambal dish, the squid was served on banana leaf, with calamansi on the side.

The karaoke had started from the far end of the street on a stage decorated with a Chinese scenic backdrop. The music was from the old days and the singers made tuneful renditions. Thankfully there were no tone-deaf wannabes, no shameless egotistical blow-up dolls and the music added to the atmosphere. The dishes kept on coming; Pak Lo Duck and then the big hit Rojak, the Malay salad, topped with finely chopped peanut. As the rojak has hay ko (prawn paste), I took leave to check out the food stalls selling deep-fried foods on skewers, fritters of all kinds and nonya kuehs.

We had cooling drinks like calamansi on ice, with singboi. And teh tarek or kopi-o. As there an army camp nearby, the men in battle fatigues were present in full force, drinking Tiger Beer.

Sipping on an iced calamansi drink and eating a Kueh Talam, I could't help thinking that this is the perfect scene for one of the many popular swordfighting films of yesteryear. Cheng Pei Pei would at any moment decend on the roof and leap across to the other side of the street. Just hope she doesn't get entangled in the hanging lanterns.

Some enchanted evening...

In praise of Youtiao 油条

A TASTE OF HEAVEN! Chinese fried breadstick Youtiao 油条 (You Char Kway in Hokkien) are crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside. It's the Chinese equivalent of crullers. Youtiao is a childhood favorite. I would always follow Grandad on his daily early morning shop, and hang out at the nonya kueh and youtiao stalls. A couple of sticks and eaten fresh out of the fryer, there's nothing more satisfiying first thing in the morning.

In Cantonese, Youtiao is Yau Ja Gwai (oil-fried devil). It's origin is steeped in history, made as an act of protest against Song Dynasty official Qin Hui and his consort who collaborated to bring down the demise of patriot General Yu Fei, hence the 2 strips of dough joined in the middle.

Away from home, there are always Chinese stalls within Asian supermarkets making youtiao. It's a far cry from the best as there is not enough traffic to warrant them being made continuously. The youtiao is usually cold, fried earlier and if the oil for frying is hot enough and less than fresh, the youtiao will be chewy and soaked in oil. Best to avoid.

When I was in the oil town of Miri recently, Lao Pan Niang took her old mate to have breakfast at Sin Yakin Food Centre. She said the youtiao stall is the most famous in Miri and of course she was right. We watched the family make it, starting with plain flour. Baking soda and baking powder is used and salt added.They go to great lengths to stress they don't use ammonia powder or alum water, a common despicable practice that makes the outside of the youtiao crispy.

'No amonia used' the sign proudly proclaims. So how is it their youtiao is a taste of heaven? Good fresh vegetable oil (no palm oil additives), heated to a high temperature. This will result in very crispy youtiao that is not soaked in oil. Many youtiao makes nowadays add eggs in the dough before frying to n.achieve that skin crunchiness. 2 strips of dough are pressed together and pressed down with a chopstick. It's now ready to be fried.

They supply many restaurants and cafes with their youtiao. So there's contant action in this rather hot enclave. It is traditional to have youtiao with sweetened soya milk.Youtiao is also used (scissor cut) in rice congee as a topping, in Bak Kut Teh herbal soup and in Lek Tau Suan. The Chinese stuff youtiao in Shaobing (roasted sandwich0 or in rice noodle roll (zhaliang).

So we sat down and had the youtiao as is, with teh tarik. We also checked out what the other stalls offered and settled on the Mee Sua and Char Kway Tiaw, after much deliberation. Mee Sua is a Foochow noodle specialty. Touted as a noodle soup of good health, prosperity and long life and served as a birthday treat, it comes with long-life noodles (mee sua), a chicken leg, dried shitake mushroom and boiled egg, simmered until ready to serve when red wine is added to the soup.

Sin Yakin
Lot 2122-2125
Yakin Commercial Centre
Jalan Bulan Sabit
Miri